The show opened with four key routes to circularity for 2023/2024.
As part of the technical cycle, Make and Remake considers how we can extend the lives of existing materials. Continuous highlights innovative approaches to closing the loop, alongside zero-waste and low-impact product life cycles. As part of the biological cycle, From Earth (pictured) explores textile design that reconnects us to nature, revisiting natural fibres and dyes. Nature Engineered reveals how nature and engineering come together to create materials that are smart, functional, and kinder to the planet.
From Earth is focused on the natural world and its wellbeing benefits. There is a deep respect for materials and a desire to reconnect with nature. Designers are exploring the potential of diverse natural resources, emphasising the warmth and softness of organic materials, and the astonishing colour diversity of natural dyeing. The existing beauty of the Earth’s materials is highlighted as designers collaborate with nature rather than controlling it, embracing natural variation. Imperfection and variation are preferred over standardisation, and raw finishes are sought after. From Earth uses crafting techniques to add textural, tactile richness. This theme gives ecological, earth-born aesthetics a welcome new vibrancy.
An earthen palette reflects organic matter and natural dyes. Warm, soft and muted, these botanical hues of plant origin range from complex takes of olive and lime to warm beige and pink, and bold indigo. This palette celebrates the beautiful natural variation and nuance of organic colour.
Make and Remake rejuvenates existing resources such as second-hand and scrap material. This theme celebrates the transformation of pre-used, deadstock, and remnant textiles into beautiful, desirable products. Designers are encouraged to let their imaginations run free, using creative, unexpected processes and applications to repurpose the wealth of reusable materials already available. Techniques such as overprinting, overdyeing, bricolage, collage, and patchwork create a maximalist, joyful mix of colour, print, pattern, and texture. The aesthetics of repair come to the fore, as contrast joinery, stitching, and patching become features in their own right, and encourage visible rejuvenation. The inventive, ingenious approach of Make and Remake has a joyous, energetic appeal.
A palette of nuanced brights represents colour that has been recycled and reclaimed. These saturated hues feature added complexity that suggests the effects of age, wear and transformation through time and processing. Challenging assumptions that conscious colour must be muted and dirtied, this palette boasts vibrancy and dynamic contrast.
Continuous celebrates zero-waste, closed-loop production that sees material recycled into new products again and again. Technically advanced reclamation processes allow designers to achieve an elevated, refined aesthetic, as materials retain their original quality. Designers are keeping low impact front of mind, aiming at mono-materiality (single materials are easier to recycle than blends). Modularity and design for disassembly (products that are easy to take apart and repurpose) are also key techniques. The Continuous aesthetic doesn’t flaunt its eco credentials. It is practical, pared-back, utilitarian, and timeless, reflecting a sense of essentialism and longevity. Its impact is sophisticated and subtle, with universal appeal. This theme extends beyond design: transparency builds trust here, and communicating the Continuous message clearly and simply reinforces that trust.
A minimal, pared-back colour palette celebrates modern, essential hues. From bright white through a series of warm greys and sage into sophisticated, classic blues and complex near-blacks, this palette elevates the classics with nuanced undertones and added complexities.
Nature Engineered elevates organic material through mechanical means, redefining our concept of ‘natural’. Designers and makers work sympathetically with natural, regenerative substances, using cutting-edge techniques to process them into sophisticated, smart, and functional textiles and materials. Clean lines and engineered forms and surfaces are honed and perfected. This highly considered design direction allows designers to focus on sustainability from start to finish, from sourcing through processing to end-of-life considerations. However, the underlying relationship with nature and regeneration remains key, and Nature Engineered retains the tactile softness we associate with organic matter, in a warmer, accessible take on utilitarianism. A strong focus on elevating the performance of natural materials gives Nature Engineered the potential to disrupt sectors such as architecture, automotive, interior design, and more.
A fresh and enlightened take on an architectural palette sees a complex spectrum of modern neutrals replace the cold, hard grey of an urban landscape. Reflecting a new and flourishing relationship with nature that is symbiotic and collaborative, these engineered natural hues have a clean, refined quality. From warm beiges and tan to green-brown and brown-green, this palette celebrates the coming together of nature and human engineering.
